An interesting vintage for Paul Pontallier, who became a father this year but regretfully informed his wife partway through the year that it was not to be a great vintage. Then the weather changed, and the results were fabulous. This shows a little more maturity than the preceding two wines, but also more depth, with a deep, dark core with just a little oxblood-pin at the rim. The nose is fine and very, very impressive. There is definition and maturity, with wonderful, classic aromatics of iron, mineral and rose petal Margaux character. On the palate, this wine has the classic composition that I associate with the left bank wines of 1996; pure, rounded now maturing fruit, finely structured and very delineated. Wonderful grip and style, the major change being a yielding to the pure black fruits of youth to a more mature style. Broad and brilliantly balanced, but still displaying much tannin. Needs ten years at least, but this is truly a great.